Our first full day in Tokyo! In such an enormous city, and Tokyo is truly enormous, it becomes almost more difficult to figure out what to do. The world was our oyster and as soon as we landed, the analysis paralysis was threatening to settle in. But, as it is with most things, the key is to not put too much pressure on it. And so, after sleeping in for just about the first time all trip, we set out for Shimokitazawa, a neighborhood known for its narrow streets, coffee shops, bars, and many thrifts.
First, however, we took a brief detour to Shiro-Hige’s Cream Puff Factory. I mentioned Hayao Miyazaki briefly in my Jioufen post, noting the town’s striking similarity to the setting of Miyazaki’s masterpiece, Spirited Away. But for those not in the know, Miyazaki is a legendary Japanese director who also founded the brilliant animation studio, Studio Ghibli (I even, once upon a time, wrote a ranking of his films). What’s more, there is now an entire Ghibli Park open in Japan, though it was tragically closed to foreigners at the time of our visit.
In any case, Shiro-Hige’s Cream Puff Factory is a bakery owned by Miyazaki’s sister-in-law that specializes in making cream puffs in the style of one of Miyazaki’s most beloved characters, Totoro! Sadly, by the time we arrived, the famous Totoro cream puffs (or those available for sale) were long gone. But in any case, it was still a beautiful place to grab a coffee and begin our day.
Back to Shimokitazawa! This truly was one of the most fun neighborhoods I’ve visited. It was a beautiful day and we spent hours just browsing around the many, many thrift stores there. And while I have some questions about what constitutes a thrift price in Japan, one couldn’t argue with the quality of goods we found.
After doing as much window shopping as we could, it was time for a bite and a drink, and boy oh boy did we find the place! Should you find yourself in Tokyo, please do yourself the favor of going to Good Time Bar. All in all, it’s a pretty laid-back bar with plenty of drinks, fun games, and most importantly, a legendary owner/bartender ready to ensure that you have a good time.
We ended up having such a #goodtime noodling around Shimokitazawa that before we knew it, the sun had set and it was time to figure out dinner. We made our way back to our home base in Minato City and ventured out for arguably the most formal dinner of the trip. Where was this place you might ask? Alas, I have spent the past two hours scouring the web in an attempt to find the magical sushi spot to no avail. Seriously, you’d think in this day and age my phone would have just automatically tracked my location. Who knows? Maybe there is some mystery in the world after all.
Speaking of Google Maps, after some spectacular sushi and a few beers (a true recipe for success), Gioia and I went in search of some karaoke. And what luck, Charlie’s Bar, a karaoke joint with a perfect rating on Google Maps was right around the corner! When we got there, however, we quickly learned that this was a true locals’ spot, by which I mean that its patronage each night consists of the same 5 or 6 friends catching up, having a few drinks, and singing their favorite songs. And while they opened up a couple of spots for me and Gioia, it was not without many questions inquiring, in more polite terms of course, “How the fuck did you find this place?”
Perhaps that’s the promise of Tokyo? That in a city whose metropolitan area is home to over 37 million people (the most in the world), hidden gems, good times, and even the neighborhood karaoke joint are around every corner.
Sam Writes Shit 
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